‘This is probably the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth,’ said my friend, mopping up the crumbs on his plate.
We’re sitting outside Nanana Coffeeshop in the Paris suburb of Meudon, eating brioche à la vergeoise brune, which can best be described as a slice of pure heaven.
Just five miles from the center of the City of Love, if this were London, we’d still be in the heart of the capital.
However, for Parisians, Meudon might as well be in Belgium.
‘People think I’ve left Paris,’ says my friend, who moved here more than a year ago. ‘But you can get to town in 20 minutes.’
Meudon is located on a hill south of the River Seine, in the shadow of a 32m high railway bridge, and bordered by forest.
Narrow cobbled streets wind along steep slopes. There are elegant buildings with wrought-iron balconies and flower-filled gardens. For this Englishman, a trip to Paris is like Richmond-upon-Thames to London.
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Meudon has attracted artists for centuries – the likes of Renoir and Sisley painted suburban scenes. It is also home to an observatory, part of the Observatoire De Paris, which is still in use today.
If you’ve never been to Paris before, it’s unlikely you’ll take the time away from the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame to go to Meudon — and frankly, it would be an odd choice.
However, if you’ve made the cross-Channel trip a few times, and are looking for a peaceful afternoon away from the crowds — or a different place to stay — this leafy neighborhood should be on your radar.
Enjoy your food
To enjoy strong French coffee in an aesthetic setting, the aforementioned Nanana Coffeeshop is the place to go.
I was told that their patisserie chef, Anne-Charlotte, bakes fresh cakes every day. And yes, the brioche is really delicious.
Of course, Meudon is home to some people Bakery. While I don’t think I’ve ever met a croissant in France that I didn’t like, I’ve had more than my share from Boulangerie de la Place, and would highly recommend it.
But by far the best meal I had on the trip was an al fresco dinner at Issy Guinguette, a small restaurant with a cute garden and its own vineyard.
Disclaimer: You’ll have to take the Metro and travel one stop to the neighboring town of Issy-les-Moulineaux for this, but it takes less than five minutes.
The atmosphere here is friendly, with couples and families enjoying meals in the garden.
As a waiter poured me another glass of wine, he explained how local schoolchildren visited the restaurant every year during harvest to trample the grapes.
I couldn’t help but laugh at the most French thing I’d ever heard, and a far cry from my school trips to Alton Towers and the Millennium Dome.
The food at Issy Guinguette is traditional French fare, but without the pretentiousness. I had the steak frites which melted in your mouth – 10/10 from me.
Things to do in Meudon
Once you’ve finished your coffee walk, head to Meudon Forest for a walk.
This vast area, which stretches across the southwestern outskirts of Paris, covering almost 1,100 hectares, is home to ponds, wildlife and scenic hiking routes.
The city’s official website suggests a variety of trails, from five-hour trails to shorter options for those with limited mobility.
Back in Meudon, be sure to stop by Hangar Y. For 40 years, this aircraft hanger (the world’s first, used during World War I) sat empty and abandoned — until a transformation project launched in 2018, turning it into a unique arts and culture space.
Today, it is home to large-scale art installations, exhibitions and open-air concerts. Currently, Hangar Y hosts an immersive Matisse exhibition, described as ‘a sensory experience…guided by dance, gesture and color.’
The glass and iron structure itself is also a sight to behold, built with the same materials used for the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1889.
There is also a garden, play area for children and a lovely restaurant open Wednesday to Saturday.
For something more cultural, perhaps the most popular tourist attraction in Meudon is the Rodin Museum, where the famous French sculptor lived and worked — and where he is buried.
You can visit his villa, as well as stroll around the gardens, enjoying some of his most famous works, including The Kiss and The Thinker.
But be warned, the restaurant is currently closed for the winter until March.
Finally, on a clear day, head to the Parc de l’Observatoire. It’s a bit tricky, but enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and stroll around the terrace of the observatory building (you can’t actually go inside).
Better yet, enjoy panoramic views of Paris. On a clear day, you can even catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower.
Go to Paris: A contender to rival Eurostar
Soon, you’ll be able to travel to Paris by train — using something that’s not Eurostar.
Several potential competitors have announced their intention to operate international services between London and Europe via the Channel Tunnel within the next five years.
However, only four applied to the Office of Rail and Road for access to Temple Mills depot, the only one that could accommodate channel tunnel trains:
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